|1||In a few words:
Short video improvised while I asked Bernard if he could knap a few nice obsidian slabs for me so I could turn them into bifaces. Extremely fragile and razor-sharp, obsidian is a superb material, but hard to spall because of its being fragile. This here bloc has many fractures which make big spalls hard to come.
|Duration: 01:45 Displays: 6100|
|2||In a few words:
This is a real piece of work since this technique is definitely tricky. Out of the blue the webmaster asked me to knap a Levallois point, and without any rehearsal we shot this video. From a Levallois core I drive 3 flakes: 2 overshot side flakes and 1 recursive before I can actually knap the point off. Neanderthal men have mastered this technique for centuries, but it still is a very difficult one for most knappers[...]
|Duration: 07:59 Displays: 8676|
|3||In a few words:
The very first video recorded by Bernard and Cayoo. Once upon a time there were a cameraman who was commenting and a flintknapper who was saying harsh words.... A first levallois point is knapped off the core in one minute... not perfect though. A second attempt only creates a pseudo-point and the third try totally destroys the prepared platform. This kind a debitage is quite tricky and challenging.
|Duration: 04:04 Displays: 4883|
|5||In a few words:
One of the many method for creating a Levallois point is to drive 3 flakes off the core (one in the middle to create the hafting scar, 2 overshot flakes on the sides to create the triangular ridges), then the point itself is knocked out of the core with a single blow of a hammerstone. Because of a power outage we weren't able to complete the whole movie, but you may watch a refitting of the flakes and points...
|Duration: 07:23 Displays: 3154|
|9||In a few words:
It is necessary to carefully shape and prepare the crested blade (the first to come off a core) because of the ridges it will leaves on the core... Those ridges will serve as a guide for the next blades. The crested ridge, though wavy, has to be relatively regular and straight. The regular convexity of its outline (its profile) should also be checked in order to avoid step-fractures or overshot blades...
|Duration: 01:03 Displays: 2112|
|10||In a few words:
Once it is prepared, the crested blade is probably the easiest blade to knap. It is in itself useless and is rarely used as a tool. But the negative and the two ridges it leaves on the core are the guide of the next blades... and those blades may be used. As I work you may hear Cayoo's accalamtions... The poor webmaster is always very enthusiastic because laminary work is for him an utopy.
|Duration: 00:18 Displays: 1975|
|11||In a few words:
It is often neglected, though rubbing the platform prior to percussion is absolutely fundamental. For an unexperienced eye, rubbing and carefully removing such tiny flake on the platform may seem useless, but they actually lead to perfect debitage as opposed to hinged or step fracture. It is always better to spend more time preparing your platform than striving to repair your errors afterwards on a carefully[...]
|Duration: 01:57 Displays: 2144|
|12||In a few words:
There are actually 3 keys to a perfect blade debitage: convexity, bending and flaking angle... When you get these 3 parameters and when your percussion is precise, blades come off the core with an astonishing regularity. See of carefully I prepare my platform before striking it: shaping and rubbing are the keys to get a perfect platform angle.
|Duration: 01:57 Displays: 2596|
|13||In a few words:
Filmed by a class student. The main problem beginners flintknappers are confronted to in laminary work is anticipation. It is mandatory to create VOLUMES in order to knap many blades off a core. Some blades are even knapped, not for themselves, but for the negatives they leave on the core (thus creating volumes). Later on this allows you to obtain blades with desired characteristics.
|Duration: 12:55 Displays: 2765|
|14||In a few words:
How to create the crested blade, the main platform, the convexity and others characteristics of a typical blade core ? Here are a fex hints that may help beginner knappers. I start creating a convexity on a side of the core with bifacial flaking. Then I knock this crest off... Every scar negative creates a volume, and every volume can be a blade, if proper platform is prepared....
|Duration: 15:22 Displays: 2236|
|15||In a few words:
Laminary work on 'livre de beurre' cores are highly tricky but it allows to create VERY long blades, like the ones used on the Charavines knifes, for example. The Bergerac flint bloc I use has many inclusions on its convex side, so I'll have to use its concave part (which is not the easiest one to work on, even if the flint is there of a much better quality).
|Duration: 01:25 Displays: 1730|
|16||In a few words:
I create an oval core with a regularly convex surface. Using the flakes negatives on the lower part of the core as platforms, I create a good convexity on the upper side. I use a punch or direct percussion. The smoother the core, the longer the blades may be. Though a bit different, this knapping technique is similar to shaping a Levallois core (using platforms under the core to create an upper convexity).
|Duration: 08:04 Displays: 1428|
|17||In a few words:
Now the core is almost ready, but I still have to create the platform: I litterally 'behead' the core, which gives an ideal angle to it, then I carefully shape my platform. I use a deer stag punch and a hammerstone... but it doesn't come as good as I hoped.
|Duration: 02:45 Displays: 1364|
|18||In a few words:
I've been able to fix the platform and the percussion point (it must have a tiny ridge, oriented in the same axis as the core) and now I thoroughly grind it... Those micro flakes I drive off the core, the carefull grinding can look useless on such a huge core, but they actually are the secret to get long blades !
|Duration: 02:15 Displays: 1217|
|19||In a few words:
After 15 minutes of carefull shaping, the core looks perfect to me... I show every sides of the core to the camera before knapping the first blade, which breaks in 3 parts ! At least the fracture drove all the way to the extremity of the core. I then prepare a second striking platform, a new percussion point and manage to get a good second blade.
|Duration: 03:05 Displays: 1629|
|20||In a few words:
I prepare again another platform (not filmed), knap a third blade, but this one is shorter than I expected: lack of preparation of the core.... The former blades negatives have created nice ridges that should help drive the fracture front and get me to knap a nice fourth blade. After having carefully prepared the platform, I finally manage to drive a perfect blade, thin and as long as the core.
|Duration: 04:07 Displays: 1665|
|21||In a few words:
I've chosen a tabular flint from which I remove big flakes. Those flakes negatives create convexities on the two faces, thus initiating a biface blank. I leave more matter on the part that will become the base and start shaping the point... A detailled operating chain of the mousterian biface with 89 commented pictures is visible in the TECHNIQUES section, sub-section OPERATING CHAINS.
|Duration: 12:55 Displays: 13572|
|22||In a few words:
On a raw blade, I create two slight convexities converging on the the point. This is mostly aimed to reduce the tool's width. A first blow leaves a flat surface with 90° angles. Here is a burin, very efficient for scraping soft materials (bone, antler, wood). A second blow creates a second burin on the other face of the blade, but also a a chisel point, very efficient to cut out slivers from a bone or an antler[...]
|Duration: 04:21 Displays: 1187|
|23||In a few words:
The first pictures show the core from which I'll drive the blades off. This bipolar nucleus allows short blades to come off the core before they get convex. I chose a straight double ridged blade and I started retouching one of its sides with a hard hammerstone on an anvil (boxwood). The point will get stronger due to its trapezoid section. On the second part (see next video), I'll make a finer retouch by pressure[...]
|Duration: 01:53 Displays: 1370|
|24||In a few words:
This kind of scraper is very easily made: on a Levallois flake (driven off the core with a hammerstone) you create an abrupt retouch so as to make 2 convexities that turn into a point. The outline is that of a boat-hull. Such a tool is quite efficient for scraping soft materials such as bone, wood, leather... Successive resharpenings will have it lose it symetry.
|Duration: 02:25 Displays: 1389|
|26||In a few words:
A short and rather thin flake (5-7 mm) is pressure flaked on both faces with a copper-tipped flaker. The flake then gets thinner and its outline is shaped as a rough triangle. A second serie of retouches on the base creates the tang and the barbs. The whole process took about 30 minutes.
|Duration: 13:54 Displays: 13186|
|27||In a few words:
I start working on this 10 cm long flint blade with a hard hammerstone (not filmed), then, with an antler pressure flaker I start flaking the top side of this blade. this top side should later on bear no trace of debitage, so the flakes have to be realy covering. Once it has become necessary to sharpen my flaker, I make a burin, shape the point of my flaker, and go back to pressure flaking this solutrean shouldered[...]
|Duration: 16:35 Displays: 1991|
|28||In a few words:
Now that the blade has a backed side, I'm using a pressure flaker made of an antler tip. With this tool I can make a more regular side, driving small and porecise flakes off the side of the point. The whole pressure flaking was not filmed because it wasn't very fascinating....
|Duration: 00:42 Displays: 1853|
Fare well pal....